To Trogir by Boat, a Long Bus Ride, Two Towers, and a Basement


We caught a 9:30 boat to Trogir this morning—an hourlong ride on a pretty typical people ferry—and explored the town on foot. This included the Cathedral of St. Lawrence, as well as climbing the bell tower at the cathedral. That was our, well, heck, who knows how many towers we’ve climbed at this point in the trip? This one was like many of the others, a combination of narrow-but-regular-and-flat steps mixed in with runs that were almost hilariously steep, uneven, and cramped—more like irregular glorified ladders than stairs. And, as tends to happen, one set of steps going both up and down means coordination with the other visitors to figure out who can go up and who can go down when.

We grabbed lunch in Trogir and then decided that we would take a bus back to Split rather than the boat: it would give us a chance to check out the bus as an option for getting to the airport on Friday, and it would get us back to Split more quickly…we thought. As it turned out, the Trogir-Split bus route stops seemingly every 100-200m, and the bus was incredibly hot. It was an hour or so to get back to town, so we nixed that as our mode of transport to get to the airport to kick off a long travel day on Friday!

Benton showered and then fell asleep while Tim puttered for a couple of hours, after which we headed back down to Diocletian’s Palace to climb the St. Domnius bell tower there (another tower!) and then checked out the “basement” of the palace, which is massive (~50 arched bays) and incredibly well preserved.

For dinner, we wandered along the promenade and picked a promising restaurant, which worked out well, and then headed back to the apartment and called it a day.

An interesting/memorable experience of the day:

  • Benton: the young kid at the St. Domnius bell tower who dropped a casual profanity (we can’t remember exactly what it was, but it was something like “holy bullshit”) for no particular reason in front of his mother and brother.

  • Tim: The three guys who went past on the promenade while we were eating dinner—mid- to late- teens, and one guy was pushing a shopping cart, another guy was sitting IN the shopping cart and eating a gelato cone, and the third guy kept trying to jump on the front of the shopping cart (while the second guy kept trying to push him off).


A bit of hard data from the day:
  • According to Benton's Apple Watch, he took 15,016 steps over the course of the day, covering 6.5 miles and burning 692 active calories.
  • According to Tim's Fitbit, he started the day having slept for 6.2 hours, and he walked 14,652 steps over the course of the day.

Click to show location on map: (Click images for large versions. Titles link to foursquare pages)
  1. Cathedral of St Lawrence (Katedrala Sv. Lovre)
  2. St Lawrence Bell Tower
  3. Kaštel Kamerlengo
  4. Wine & Dine "Gastro Story"
  5. Autobusni kolodvor Trogir
  6. St. Domnius Bell Tower (Zvonik Sv. Duje)
  7. The Basement Halls of Diocletian’s Palace
  8. Brasserie On 07